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Water waves are generally classified as deep-water waves or shallow-water waves. Deep-water waves are produced through oscillation, occurring when the water depth surpasses half the length of the waves. Shallow-water waves meanwhile, are generated through translation, occurring when the depth of water is less than 1/20 of the length of the waves.


Waves are basically disturbances (termed oscillations) on the surface of the water, which can be formed on all types of water bodies like seas, oceans, rivers and even lakes. Although waves stem from some kind of external force, they are actually a restoring force, which counters the disturbance introduced in the water.


Waves moving through water deeper than half their wavelength are known as deep-water waves. On the other hand, the orbits of water molecules in waves moving through shallow water are flattened by the proximity of the sea surface bottom. Waves in water shallower than 1/20 their original wavelength are known as shallow-water waves.


Mechanical waves require a medium in order to transport their energy from one location to another. A sound wave is an example of a mechanical wave. Sound waves are incapable of traveling through a vacuum. Slinky waves, water waves, stadium waves, and jump rope waves are other examples of mechanical waves; each requires some medium in order to ...


The Science of Water Waves. Water Waves by Michael Konrad. Any disturbance can cause a water wave. A pebble striking the surface, movement of a boat, movement of the earth during an earthquake, or the wind. Here we focus on wind generated waves, although the same principles apply to all water waves.


The main wave types are breaking, constructive, deep water, destructive, inshore, internal, Kelvin, seiche, shallow water and surging waves. Ocean waves are usually categorized based on formation and behavior.


Waves for which the wave speed varies with wavelength are called dispersive. Thus, deep water waves are dispersive, while shallow water waves are non-dispersive. For water waves with wavelengths of a few centimeters or less, surface tension becomes important to the dynamics of the waves.


In representing the wave function of a localized particle, the wave packet is often taken to have a Gaussian shape and is called a Gaussian wave packet. Gaussian wave packets also are used to analyze water waves. For example, a Gaussian wavefunction ψ might take the form:


Longitudinal and Transverse Wave Motion. Mechanical Waves are waves which propagate through a material medium (solid, liquid, or gas) at a wave speed which depends on the elastic and inertial properties of that medium. There are two basic types of wave motion for mechanical waves: longitudinal waves and transverse waves. The animations below ...


Wave: Wave, a ridge or swell on the surface of a body of water, normally having a forward motion distinct from the oscillatory motion of the particles that successively compose it. The undulations and oscillations may be chaotic and random, or they may be regular, with an identifiable wavelength between