Choosing an opening that is 25 feet from the dryer is important. The vent pipe should be as short as possible. The installer needs to connect the roof vent to the dryer with a 4-inch metal duct pipe. Cutting a hole in the ceiling and running the duct through the attic may be necessary.
Moving the opening 5 feet closer for every 90-degree curve is necessary, and the opening should be 2 1/2 feet closer for every 45-degree curve. The installer needs to trace the opening of the bottom portion of the dryer vent with a pencil from inside the roof starting in the attic and drill a half-inch hole on the outline before running a reciprocating saw around the outline. The next step is to cut away the shingles that cover the hole and use roof tar around the hole. Following this, he must pull away the shingles that line the hole and insert the pipe that is attached to the vent. Next, the installer needs to place the vent flashing under the lifted shingles and allow it to fall onto the flashing. The lower portion of the flashing should be on the shingles.
Before finishing, the installer needs to attach the vent to the flashing with 1-inch roofing nails, cover the edges with tar and snap the vent cap into place. He should then place a 4-inch metal duct elbow on the back of the dryer and secure with duct clamp. The elbow should be facing the roof vent. When connecting the duct pipe, he should make cuts as necessary to get the fittings right and insulate the pipe if it runs through the attic. The last step is to reinforce all joints of the duct with metal foil tape.
A longer duct run means more friction. This promotes lint build-up and makes it harder for dryers to function. Using dryer-specific vents provide ventilation more effectively. A roof vent that caries less back pressure is a more efficient system.