For newer washing machines featuring a computer, conducting a master reset is the first step when the machine does not spin or drain. For older machines, troubleshooting the lid switch and the pressure switch is the first step. These initial steps can save the cost of a professional service call.
To perform a master Reset, pull the washing machine's electrical plug carefully form the socket, and leave it out for at least a minute. Then, plug it back in, and open and shut the door six times within 12 seconds. This is the reset signal for many newer models, but your owner's manual may detail a different process. Then, run the washing machine through a small-load cycle without any clothes inside. If it runs through the whole cycle normally, the job is finished.
Troubleshooting the lid switch is the next step. The lid switch indicates to the washing machine that it is time to move to the next cycle. The owner's manual helps you find the lid switch, and in some cases, the lid has a narrow piece attached that pushes through an opening on the bottom when the lid is down, pushing a piece inside that hole down to spur the next cycle. In other cases, the lid switch is more elaborate. In a simple system, merely bending the vertical piece so it contacts the switch below solves the problem. If removing the lid switch is necessary, unplug the washing machine and remove the lidswitch, but leave the wires attached. Use a multimeter to see if current runs when the button the switch activates is depressed.
If it works, the next step is to check the water level control or pressure switch. If the washing machine pumped the water out but did not spin, this is most likely the problem. Find this switch using the directions in the owner's manual. If residue has gathered in the tube on the switch, flushing it out with vinegar from a turkey baster should dissolve the clog. If the switch has visible burns or cracks, replacement is necessary.