Mix Redken Shades EQ using a 1:1 ratio of Shades EQ color gloss to Shades EQ processing solution. Both products must always be mixed in equal parts and used immediately. Allow the color to develop for 20 minutes at room temperature, and dilute Shades EQ with Shades EQ Crystal Clear or a 09 shade to lessen the tonal deposit on the hair.
Ammonia is an alkaline chemical used to open the cuticle, which is the outer layer of the hair shaft. The cuticle must be open to allow the deposit of permanent hair color. When the cuticle is open, hair dye reacts with the hair's cortex, the inner portion of the hair, to either deposit or remove hair color.
Most permanent hair dyes use a simultaneously occurring, two-step process to remove the original hair color while depositing the new color into the hair. This is achieved by bonding the colorant within the hair shaft. Peroxide is used as a developer to remove pre-existing hair color by breaking down the hair's chemical bonds. As the hair's melanin is decolorized, the ammonia and peroxide combine to act as a catalyst. This allows the new hair color to bond to the hair's cortex. Conditioners in the hair dye close the cuticle to seal in and protect the new hair color.