North Twin (Peak) is one of the two peaks that comprise The Twins massif located at the northeast corner of the Columbia Icefield in Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada. The other lower peak is named South Twin (3,566 m). North Twin is the third highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, after Mount Robson and Mount Columbia.

The massif was named The Twins in 1898 by J. Norman Collie and Hugh M. Stutfield. The decision to name the peaks separately was approved February 28 1980.

In addition to North Twin and South Twin, the massif contains a northern subpeak of North Twin known as Twins Tower, 3,627 m (11,900 ft). This sits atop the famed north face of the massif (see below), and was named in 1984.

Routes

The normal route is a ski mountaineering climb on the eastern slopes, and it is possible to ski all the way up to the summit. A traverse can be made to the South Twin, although an ice axe is recommended for the narrow connecting ridge.

The nearly vertical north face drops over 1500 metres from Twins Tower to the Athabasca River (The true summit of North Twin is somewhat removed from the top of the north face). This face is renowned in climbing circles. It has only been climbed by three parties: George Lowe and Chris Jones in 1974; Barry Blanchard and Dave Cheesmond (via the North Pillar) in 1985; and Steve House and Marko Prezelj via a variation, in winter, of the Lowe-Jones route (account here) in 2004. All are alpine grade VI, 5.10-5.10d routes, with objective danger from rock and serac fall.

References

External links

• North Twin Peak on Peakfinder - photos

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