The Chiltern Hills
are a chalk escarpment
in southeast England
. They are known locally as "the Chilterns". A large portion of the hills
was designated officially as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty
The Chilterns stretches in a seventy-five mile southwest
diagonal from Goring-On-Thames
, via Dunstable
Downs in Bedfordshire
to the furthest northeast ridge
which runs from Deacon Hill, Pegsdon, close to the border of Hertfordshire
The boundary of the hills is clearly defined on the northwest side by the scarp slope. The dip slope, by its nature, merges with the landscape to the southeast. Similarly, the Thames provides a clear terminal whereas, northeast of Luton, the hills decline slowly in prominence.
The scarp overlooks the Vale of Aylesbury
, and approximately coincides with the southernmost extent of the ice sheet
during the last ice age
. The Chilterns are part of the Southern England Chalk Formation
which also includes Salisbury Plain
, Cranborne Chase
, the Isle of Wight
and the South Downs
, in the south
. In the north
, the chalk formations continue northeastwards across north Hertfordshire
and the Lincolnshire Wolds
, finally ending as the Yorkshire Wolds
in a prominent escarpment, south of the Vale of Pickering
Their highest point is 267 m
) at Haddington Hill
in Wendover Woods
, near Wendover
; a stone
marks the summit
. A prominent hill is the nearby Ivinghoe Beacon
, standing 249m (817ft) above sea level
, the starting point of the Icknield Way
and the Ridgeway long distance path
, which follows the line of the Chilterns for many miles to the west
, where they merge with the Wiltshire
downs and southern Cotswolds
. To the east of Ivinghoe Beacon is Dunstable Downs
, a steep section of the Chiltern scarp that is the site of the famous London Gliding Club
and Whipsnade Zoo
. Near Wendover is Coombe Hill
which is 260 m (853 ft) above sea level.
The more gently sloping country - the dip slope - to the southeast of the Chiltern scarp is also generally referred to as the Chilterns, containing much beech woodland and many pretty villages.
Rivers that drain from the Chiltern Hills include the River Mimram, River Lee, River Ver, River Bulbourne, River Misbourne, River Chess, River Wye and River Gade and are classified as chalk streams.
The opening credits of the BBC sitcom The Vicar of Dibley feature an aerial shot of the Stokenchurch Gap. This is a major excavation which eases the M40 motorway from the Chilterns into the Vale of Oxford. It is between junctions 5 and 6. The chalk that forms the hills can clearly be seen on both sides of the cutting when driving on the motorway.
times, the Chiltern ridge provided a relatively safe and easily negotiable route across southern Iron Age England
, thus the Icknield Way
(one of England's ancient prehistoric
trackways) follows the line of the hills.
One of the principal Roman settlements in the Roman province of Britannia Superior was sited at Verulamium (now St Albans) and there are significant Roman and Romano-British remains in the area.
The Tudors had a hunting lodge in the Hemel Hempstead area.
Until the coming of the railways
and, later, the motor-car
, the Chilterns were largely rural
with country towns situated on the main routes through the hills. The position of the hills, northwest of London, has affected the routing of major road
routes. These were funnelled through convenient valleys
(eg, High Wycombe
, Hemel Hempstead
) and encouraged settlement and, later, commuter
List of towns and villages in, or adjacent to, the Chilterns
- Aldbury, Amersham, Apsley, Ashridge
- Barton-le-Clay, Beaconsfield, Bellingdon, Berkhamsted, Bledlow Ridge, Bovingdon, Bradenham, Breachwood Green, Buckland Common
- Caddington, Chalfont St Giles, Chalfont St Peter, Chartridge, Chesham, Chinnor, Cholesbury
- Edlesborough, Ellesborough
- Fawley, Fingest, Flackwell Heath, Frieth
- Goring-On-Thames, Great Missenden, Great Hampden, Great Offley
- Halton, Hambleden, Hawridge, Hemel Hempstead, Henley-on-Thames, Hexton, High Wycombe, Hughenden
- Lane End, Ley Hill, Little Missenden, Lilley, Luton
- Markyate, Medmenham
- Naphill, Nettlebed
- Pishill, Princes Risborough, Prestwood, Reading, Redbourn
- Skirmett, Sharpenhoe, Southend, Speen, St Leonards, Stokenchurch, Stonor, Studham
- Tring, Turville
- Walter's Ash, Watlington, Wendover, West Wycombe, Whitwell, Whipsnade, Wigginton
The hills have been exploited for their natural resources
. The chalk has been quarried
for the manufacture
supplied furniture makers with quality hardwood
. The area was once (and still is to a lesser degree) renowned for its chair
-making industry, centred on the towns of Chesham
and High Wycombe (the nickname of Wycombe Wanderers
Football Club is the Chairboys). The clean water
from the aquifer
is still used for public supply and the rivers and streams
have fed watercress
beds. The chalk of the hills is an important aquifer, exploited to provide water supplies in the area; it has been suggested that over-exploitation has led to the disappearance of some streams.
In a region short of building stone, local clay deposits and timber provided the raw materials for brick manufacture. Where available, flint was also used for construction; it is still used in modern buildings, although restricted to decoration to give a vernacular appearance.
Mediaeval parishes reflected the diversity of land from clay farmland, through wooded slopes to downland. Their boundaries were often drawn to include a section of each type of land, resulting in an irregular county boundary between, say, Bedfordshire and Hertfordshire. These have tended to be smoothed out by successive reorganisations.
In modern times, as people have come to appreciate open country, the area has become a visitor destination and the National Trust has acquired land to preserve its character, for example at Ashridge, near Tring. In places, with the reduction of sheep grazing, action has been taken to maintain open downland by suppressing the natural growth of scrub and birch woodland. In the 1920s and 1930s, the Youth Hostels Association established several youth hostels for people visiting the hills.
The Chilterns are not a National Park
and do not, therefore, possess their own planning authority
. The Chilterns Conservation Board
has an advisory role on planning and development matters and seeks to influence the actions of local government by commenting upon planning applications
The local authorities (four County Councils, one Unitary Authority and ten District and Borough Councils) are expected to respect the area's status as a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
The Chilterns includes the Chiltern Hundreds
. By established custom, Members of the British Parliament
may apply for the Stewardship of the Chiltern Hundreds as a device to resign their seats, despite an ordinance to the contrary (see Resignation from the House of Commons