Chanel

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Chanel S.A. (in formal form) or just Chanel (ʃə.ˈnɛɫ ) (in marketing form), is a prominent Parisian fashion house specializing in luxury goods (haute-couture, ready-to-wear, handbags, perfumery, and cosmetics among others). According to Forbes, the privately held House of Chanel is jointly owned by Alain Wertheimer and Gerard Wertheimer who are the grandsons of the early (1924) Chanel partner Pierre Wertheimer. Today Chanel operates boutiques around the world in upscale shopping districts, and hosts its recognized fashion shows among the greatest fashion capitals. Merchandise carry the signature double-"C" logo, and, highly sought after, are amongst the most counterfeited luxury goods of modern time. Indeed, the Chanel label has become one of the most recognized names in luxury and haute couture fashion. Coco Chanel, founder of the House of Chanel, took to living at the Hôtel Ritz Paris and her suite of residence is now named the "Coco Chanel Suite."

Rivals of la Maison de Chanel include the Parisian fashion labels of Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, and Hermès. Other competitors are Bvlgari, Cartier, Gianfranco Ferre, Versace, Gucci, and Prada. Among the social elite and celebrities who wear Chanel are Catherine Deneuve (1970s Chanel No.5 spokesmodel),Nicole Kidman (previous Chanel No. 5 spokesmodel), Audrey Tautou (current Chanel No.5 spokesmodel), Natalie Portman, Jennifer Aniston, Scarlett Johansson, Kirsten Dunst, and Vanessa Paradis.

History

The Coco Chanel Era

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (b.1883 - d.1971) began her fashion career in 1910. She heralded new designs and revolutionized the fashion industry by going “back to basics,” incorporating elegance, class, and originality. Under her tight reign from 1909-1971, Coco Chanel held the title as ‘Chief Designer’ until her death on January 10, 1971.

Establishment and recognition: 1909 through 1920s

In 1909, Gabrielle Chanel opened a small shop on the ground floor of the Balsan's apartment in Paris - the simple beginnings of what would later become one of the greatest fashion empires in the world. The Balsan home was a meeting place of the hunting elite of France and the gentlemen brought along with them their fashionable mistresses, giving Coco the opportunity to sell the women decorated hats. With Arthur Capel (a member of the Balsan men's group and the only one who worked for a living), Coco struck a relationship with.

He saw a great potential businesswoman in Coco and helped her acquire her legendary location at 31 Rue de Cambon in Paris by 1910...thus founding Chanel Modes. There was a drawback to the plan because since there was already a couture shop in the building, Coco was not allowed in her lease to produce couture dresses. In 1913, Chanel introduced women’s sportswear at her new boutique in Deauville and Biarritz, France. She detested the fashions of women who came to these resort towns, trying to outdo each others fashions with frills, flounces, large hats, tight corsets and long skirts. By comparison, Chanel's designs tended to be more simple and elegant than opulent in look (common haute couture fashion of the Belle Époque). World War I greatly affected fashion. Coal was scarce and women were taking on factory jobs in the men's stead and, as such, they needed warm clothing that would stand up to working conditions. Chanel's designs from this era were also greatly affected by the relatively new idea of women's sports. During World War I, Coco opened another larger shop on Rue de Cambon in front of the Hôtel Ritz Paris. Here she sold flannel blazers, straight linen skirts, sailor tops, long jersey sweaters and skirt-jackets. Her styles and materials had a rather radical simplicity to them as well. Her fashion became known in 1915 throughout France for prioritizing freedom of movement by not featuring ostentation and redundancy in her designs. In the years 1915 and 1917, Harper's Bazaar mentioned that Chanel's name was "on the list of every buyer." Her boutique at 31 Rue Cambon previewed increasingly simple day dress-and-coat ensembles and black evening dresses in lace or jet-embroidered tulle (she also piled cushions of feathers, fur and metallic fabrics on the sofas in the gray and amber salons).

Coco Chanel established herself a great reputation as a meticulous fashion couturier. Following the fashion trends of the 1920s, Chanel produced beaded dresses, but with her only unique image. The suit in two or three pieces created in 1920 remains a modern popular fashion look. The suit was advocated as the "new uniform for afternoon and evening as far back as 1915." 1921 saw the introduction of her first perfume Chanel No. 5. Earnest Beaux created the fragrance for Coco and she named it after her lucky number 5. The Chanel trademark simplicity was expressed in the square design of the bottle: It has never changed since then. The fragrance was an immediate success and was a special hit with the women of high society. Reportedly, the signature scent was a result of her belief in superstitions. She was scheduled to show her collection on the fifth day of the fifth month. Coco informed Harper's Bazaar, “simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance," in 1923.

Parfums Chanel: the late 1920s

Parfums Chanel was founded in 1924 by Pierre Wertheimer (in collaboration with Coco Chanel) to produce and sell perfumes and beauty products. Theophile Bader (founder of the successful French department store Galeries Lafayette) was the man who introduced Coco to Wertheimer. Wertheimer retained 70% of Parfums Chanel, while Bader retained 20%, and Coco a modest 10%. Under unjust terms (which were possibly inspired by sexism), Coco was forced to operate her couture business apart from Parfums Chanel. In 1924, Coco also introduced her first costume jewelry which were a pair of pearl earrings, one black, one white. Along with the success of her haute couture business, Coco herself grew her "social desirability and her personal legend." A new love interest in her live was the Duke of Westminster. She introduced to the world her signature cardigan jacket in 1925. In 1926, Chanel introduced the ‘little black dress,’ greeted by Vogue as the ‘new uniform of the modern woman.’ That same year, Chanel introduced the classic tweed. Inspired by visits to Scotland with the Duke of Westminster, Chanel created her first tweed suits. Soon, Coco operated a boutique near the renown Louvre museum.

As the couture Chanel and Parfums Chanel gained success, business relations between Coco and Pierre were sour. She grew resentment for ever partnering with Pierre Wertheimer and believed she deserved more then 10% in shares. Coco saw that the Wertheimers were attempting to exploit her talents for their own personal gain. She also expressed that she unwillingly signed away the rights to her own name. Nevertheless, Wertheimer fired back by reminding Coco that he had funded her venture (allowing her to present her creations to the market), and that he had made her a relatively wealthy woman.

Coco hired René de Chambrun as her attorney for renegotiating the terms with the Wertheimers. Sadly. they crushed her attempts.

Chanel and Nazi affiliation: 1930s through 1950s

Evening couture dresses from Chanel evolved into looks more enlongated, feminine, and "almost fantastical." Summer dresses have contrasting scintillating touches (e.g. rhinestone straps and silver eyelets). Coco also designed special dresses in 1937 for petite women whom she pitied their looks when seated in theaters. Throughout the 1930s, the House of Chanel gained competition from Elsa Schiaparelli, a couturier like her whom she called "that Italian artist who makes clothes." Essentially, Schiaparelli was not a threat, as her popularity was only limited to the 1930s. However much Schiaparelli proved to be a great designer, Coco remained original and avoided imitating her styles. Chanel premiered an exhibition of jewelry in 1932 dedicated to the diamond. Several of the pieces, including the "Comet" and "Fountain" necklaces were re-introduced by Chanel in 1993. When World War II began in 1939, Coco Chanel retired and moved into the Hôtel Ritz Paris with her new beau, Nazi officer Hans Gunther von Dincklage. Only her parfums and accessories were sold in her existing boutiques.

When France fell under the control of Adolf Hitler's Nazi Germany in 1940, the Nazi's made the Ritz their French headquarters. Pierre Wertheimer and his family fled to the United States in 1940, and before Coco could take the opportunity to take full control over Parfums Chanel, Wertheimer made an "Aryan proxy" for the company. Throughout Paris, rumors and gossip spread out about Coco actually being in "more the friendly terms with Germans." Chanel biographer Edmonde Charles-Roux states that German intelligence sent her to "visit Winston Churchill as a part of a secret peace mission. Coco Chanel was arrested immediately after the liberation of France and charged with abetting the Germans, but Churchill intervened on her behalf and she was released. " When France was liberated after the fall of the Nazi Empire, Frenchman paid revenge on traitorous French harridans who collaborated with the Nazis. Coco Chanel was without a doubt a target after the rumors, and so she fled to Switzerland.

In Coco's absence, Pierre Wertheimer returned to Paris to control Wertheimer family holdings. In spite, Coco created her own collection of parfums. Wertheimer felt his legal rights harassed, but wanted to avoid a court battle,. So, he settled with Coco by giving her $400,000 USD, agreed to pay her 2% royalty from all Chanel products, and gave her limited rights to sell her own parfums in Switzerland. Ironically, Coco stopped making parfums after the agreement. She sold the complete rights to her name to the Wertheimers for Parfums Chanel, in echange for a monthly stipend. The stipend provided her and her paramour von Dincklage with enough money to suffice for them a life of high class.

Chanel's comeback: 1950s through 1970s

Chanel returned to Paris in 1953. She found that her popularity had been forgotten in the wake of fashion designer Christian Dior. Dior had created the dramatic "New Look" in 1947, which dominated fashion throughout the 1940s and 1950s. The New Look was becoming outdated, and so the 71 year-old Coco decided to make her comeback with perfect timing. Coco re-approached Pierre for business advise and financial back-up. In return, he gained complete rights to all products stamped with the name "Chanel." Their re-collaboration paid off as Chanel became the top label in fashion again. Chanel re-introduced the "Chanel suit" which formed as a basis for many of her collections. Coco introduced the Chanel chain handled quilted leather handbags in February 1957 (named 2.55). They remain highly in demand even today. That same year, Chanel launched her first eau de toilette for men, Pour Monsieur. As well in 1957 at the Fashion Awards in Dallas, Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar. The fashion world applauded her as the ‘most influential designer of the twentieth century.’ Pierre later bought Badar's 20% share (giving his family 90% in the parfums business). Pierre retired in 1965 and died in 1967. his son Jaques Wertheimer took over in his place in 1965. Coco's attorney Chambrun called the now-gone-relationship as "one based on a businessman's passion for a woman who felt exploited by him." He told Forbes, "Pierre returned to Paris full of pride and excitement [after one of his horses won the 1956 English Derby]. He rushed to Coco, expecting congratulations and praise. But she refused to kiss him. She resented him, you see, all her life."

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel died on January 10, 1971 at the age of 88. Supposedly she was still "designing, still working" at the time of her death. Leadership of the company was handed down to Yvonne Dudel, Jean Cazaubon and Phlippe Guibourge. The House continued average success, and Jacques Wetheimer bought the entire House of Chanel. Critics stated that during his leadership, he never paid much attention with Chanel as he was more interested in horse breeding. However, Coco's influence did not pass with her death. Other posthumous projects came to light a few years later. In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was in the workings when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories.

Alain Wertheimer, Jaques son, took over in 1974. Back in the U.S. Chanel No.5 was now seen as a second-rate fragrance for out-of-date women. Alain revamped Chanel No.5 sales by reducing the number of outlets who carried the fragrance from 18,000 to 12,000. He also removed the perfume from drugstore shelves, and invested millions of dollars in advertisement for Chanel cosmetics. This ensured a greater sense of scarcity and exclusivity for No.5, and sales rocketed back up as the demand for the fragrance increased. Alain attempted to also revamp Chanel's reputation in fashion. Looking for a designer who could bring the label to new heights, he persuaded Karl Lagerfeld to end his contract with fashion house Chloe.

Post-Coco through today

In 1981, Chanel launched a new eau de toilette for men, Antaeus. In 1983, Lagerfeld took over as chief designer for Chanel. He revamped Chanel's fashion lines and bought it back on top of the fashion world. He shocked the fashion world by changing Chanel’s fashion lines from the predictable same styles that greeted the world year after year to shorter cuts and eye capturing designs. During the 1980, more than 40 Chanel boutiques were opened up worldwide. By the end of the 1980s, these boutiques sold luxurious goods ranging from $200-per-ounce perfume, $225 USD ballerina slippers to $11,000 USD dresses and $2,000 USD leather handbags. Rights to Chanel cosmetics and fragrances were strictly kept to Chanel only and not shared with other beauty producers and distributors. As Lagerfeld took charge as chief designer, other designers and marketers for Chanel worked on keeping the classic Chanel look to maintain the Chanel legend. The bottle for Chanel No.5 was kept the same because designers considered it classic and artistic. Chanel marketer Jean Hoehn explained, "We introduce a new fragrance every 10 years, not every three minutes like many competitors. We don't confuse the consumer. With Chanel, people know what to expect. And they keep coming back to us, at all ages, as they enter and leave the market." The launch of a new fragrance in honor of the late Coco Chanel, Coco, in 1984 maintained success in the perfumery business with Chanel. In 1986, the House of Chanel struck a deal with watchmakers and in 1987, the first Chanel watch made its debut. By the end of the decade, Alain moved the offices to New York City.

The company earned the placed as global leader in fragrance maker and marketing in the 1990s. Heavy marketing investment (the most than any other company) reaped in majors sums of revenue. The success of the Maison de Chanel brought the Wertheimer family fortune to $5 billion USD. Product lines such as watches (retailing for as much as $7,000 USD), shoes, high-end cloths, cosmetics and accessories were expanded. Sales were hurt by the recession of the early 1990s, but Chanel recovered by the mid-1990a with further boutique expansion. 1990 saw the launch of ĹŹ. As the business trend was going about (buying up other fashion companies), Chanel -- like Moët-Hennessy • Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada -- bought up numerous companies. The House acquired Les Broderies Lemarié (a renown feather and flower craftshouse which provided embroidery for the haute couture industry), A. Michael et Cie, and Lesage. Chanel was also rumored to also buy the company Massaro. By 1996, Chanel bought gunmaker Holland & Holland. It attempted to revamp the gunsmaker but did not succeed. 1996 also greeted the launch of Allure fragrance and due to its immense popularity, a men’s version, Allure Homme was launched in 1998. Better success came with he purchase of Eres (a renowned swimwear label). The House of Chanel launched its first skin care line, PRÉCISION in 1999. That same year, Chanel launched a new travel collection, and under a license contract with Luxottica, introduced a line of sunglasses and eyeglass frames.

While Alain Wertheimer remained chairman of Chanel, CEO and President Françoise Montenay was to bring Chanel into the 21st century. 2000 saw the launch of the first unisex watch by Chanel, the J12, a style whose clean cuts and fusion of masculine and feminine elements formed a revolutionary watch, and a supposed cult-following in certain circles. In 2001, Bell & Ross was purchased (a watchmaker). The same year, Chanel boutiques offering only selections of accessories were opened in the United States. In 2002 saw the launch of Chance fragrance, with a scent of surprise and glamour. The House of Chanel also founded the Paraffection company that gathered the five Ateliers d’Art: Desrues for ornamentation, Lemarié for feathers and camellias, Lesage for embroiderer, Massaro for shoemaker, and Michel for millinery. A prêt-à-porter collection proposing their know-how was designed by Karl Lagerfeld. It is now traditionally presented each December. In July 2002, a jewelry and watch flagship store was opened on the upscale Madison Avenue. Within the months, a 1,000^sqft shoes and handbags boutique was opened next door to the Jewelry and watches flagship. Out of everything that happened in 2002, the most shocking was the rumor circulating the fashion world that Chanel with make a merger with the renown luxury goods Parisian fashion company Hermès. This would make Chanel and Hermès one of the most powerful fashion companies in the world the likes of Moët-Hennessy • Louis Vuitton. This brought the store count in the U.S. to 25 locations nationwide. To please its younger followers, Chanel introduced Coco Mademoiselle and an "In-Between Wear" in 2003. That same year saw such an immense popularity of Chanel haute couture that the company founded a second atelier on rue Cambon. Continuing an influence in the Asian market, the House of Chanel opened a new 2,400 Square feet boutique in Hong Kong and payed nearly $50 million USD for a building in the classy and upscale shopping district of Ginza in Tokyo, Japan.

Influence on fashion & popularity

Coco Chanel revolutionized haute couture fashion by replacing the traditional corseted silhouette with the comfort of simple suits and long, lean dresses. The years of the 1920s and 1930s will best be remembered as the era of Coco whose simpler lines of women's couture led to the popular "flat-chested" look of the 1920s. Her clothing were relaxed and changed that way women dressed for outdoor leisure. Coco omitted corsetts, liberating women and creating more comfort. Contemporary Fashion states, "She dressed the modern woman in clothes for a lifestyle." Coco is credited for making jersey (a soft elasticated knit used for undegarments) a new fashion fabric. Her jersey dresses in navy and gray were cut to flatter the figure rather than to emphasize and distort the natural body shape. These dressed were highly popular by wealthy women, ans so she extended her range with them being manufactored by Rodier. Chanel also incorporated ideas from male wardrobe into her designs.

She had numerous other major successes that changed the fashion industry including the ever popular Chanel suit, composed of a knee-length skirt and trim, boxy jacket, traditionally made of woven wool with black sewing trim and gold buttons, worn with large costume-pearl necklaces. The hem of the suit is weighted down with a chain. Wealthy women around the world began to flock to her 31 Rue Cambon boutique to commission couture outfits from her. The House of Chanel became an icon of elegance and from then on, the name "Chanel" became synonymous with elegance, wealth, and elitism, as well as the ultimate sign of French high class. After the phenomenal success of her perfume, Chanel No. 5, Coco Chanel's fashions became even more well-known and were purchased by the high flyers of London and Paris society alike. The financial gain form the fragranec also helped her company during difficult years.

Overall, Chanel has touched many American and European fashion designers for her pioneering search for originality and simple perfection. They "continue to re-inforce her concept of uncomplicated classics that inspire namy contemporary designer's ready-to-wear collection -- a homage to Chanel's essential modernist styling and her legacy to the world of fashion.

Chanel is also known for its quilted fabric and leather which also has a "secret" quilting pattern sewn at the back to keep the material strong. It was inspired by the jackets of jockeys. This material is used for clothing and accessories alike. The Luxury Line, introduced in 2006 featuring a metal chain embedded in the leather, is one of the most desired "it" bags of the moment. Chanel still is popular because they mix the trends of today with the class and simplicity they had when they first opened. The brand is now headed by German-born designer Karl Lagerfeld, who also designs for the House of Fendi, as well as his namesake label. Lagerfeld has defined the style and fashion of Chanel as being the five essentials: audacious, perfectionist, unique, passionate, and visionary.

Chanel logo & counterfeiting

The signature Chanel logotype is an interlocking double-C (one facing forwards the other facing backwards). Originally it was not a logo that Coco Chanel came up with. The logo derives from the name "Coco", the two C's. The logotype was not trademarked until the opening of the first Chanel stores.

Chanel is currently dealing with illegal use of the double-C logotype on cheaper goods, especially counterfeit handbags. Countries said to be producing great numbers of counterfeit Chanel handbags are Vietnam, Thailand, and China. An authentic Chanel handbag retails from around $1,500 USD, while a counterfeit usually costs around $100 USD, creating a demand for the signature style at a cheaper price. All authentic Chanel handbags are serialized.

Chanel locations

As of 2002, Chanel operates 80 Chanel boutiques worldwide. These locations are found in upscale classy shopping districts and streets. There are locations in Ginza. Madison Avenue, Rodeo Drive, ect. Another 120 stores are run within high-end department stores.

Watches

Creative Director at Chanel Jacques Helleu followed Coco Chanel's credo, having designed the first Chanel watch named 'Premiere' in 1987. The first model of the Chanel J12 watches line was introduced in 2000.

In 2005, Chanel designers introduced the J12 line into the area of Fine Jewelry timepieces - they developed the jewelry watch that was equipped with the tourbillion. Chanel asked experienced Swiss watchmakers to develop the exclusive 'CHANEL O5-T.1' movement.

In 2006, the line was joined by Chanel J12 Haute Joaillerie set with 597 baguette-cut diamonds, followed by the creation of the Chanel J12 Tourbillon Haute Joaillerie. In 2007, Chanel launched its first J12 GMT model.

In 2008, Chanel initiated the partnership with Audemars Piguet, having developed the 'J12 calibre 3125', equipped with an innovative automatic movement - CHANEL AP - 3125, the fusion of the AP 3120 movement and Chanel 'J12' ceramic.

Marketing filmography

Chanel No. 5

Chanel has launched a new advertising film that casts Nicole Kidman as the new face of Chanel No. 5. It was produced by Baz Luhrmann, the director of Moulin Rouge and Romeo+Juliet, and was shot on location in Sydney. Kidman takes on the role of the most famous woman in the world while Brazilian Model/Actor Rodrigo Santoro plays a struggling writer in love with Kidman. The commercial lasts three minutes, and reportedly took many months of pre- and post-production. It cost about €26 million ($46 million), making No. 5 The Film one of the most expensive advertisements in history.

Audrey Tautou, an acclaimed French actress and star of the religiously controversial and box-office financially successful film, The Da Vinci Code (2006), has replaced Kidman as spokesmodel for the No.5 fragrance.

The No. 5 perfume had always received free campaigns from actresses and starlets that used it daily, including Marilyn Monroe, Nicole Kidman, Vanessa Paradis and new face Audrey Tautou

Coco Mademoiselle

The young, beautiful Academy Award-nominated British actress and current spokesmodel for Coco Mademoiselle, Keira Knightley, stared as the young Coco Chanel in a short advertisement film for the fragrance. Knightley made her appearance clad in a bowler hat and short styled bob. The film was directed by the BAFTA-winning English film director Joe Wright. He has worked with Keira in his critically acclaimed, Academy-award winning films, Pride & Prejudice (2005) and Atonement (2007).

British actress Emma Watson, who plays Hermione Granger in the globally successful Harry Potter films, will take over as the new face of the fragrance July 2008.

References

Footnotes

Links

• The House of Chanel
• [Chic Chicago: Couture Treasures from the Chicago History Museum]
• Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies. Victoria and Albert Museum. .
• Chanel's AW 08/09 show in the Hint Fashion Magazine

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