City (pop., 2003 est.: 2,346,000), capital of Shandong province, eastern China. It dates to the Zhou dynasty (1046–256 BC) and earlier and has been an administrative centre since the 8th century BC. Nearby Mount Tai was one of China's greatest holy mountains; many Buddhist cave temples were built in the hills south of the city in the 4th–7th century AD. It was made the capital of Shandong under the Ming dynasty (1368–1644). Opened to foreign commerce in 1904, it developed further after becoming a railroad junction in 1912. It is now a major administrative and industrial centre and Shandong's chief cultural centre, with agricultural, medical, and engineering colleges and a large university (1926).
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These are further divided into 146 township-level divisions, including 65 towns, 27 townships and 54 subdistricts.
Jinan has been inhabited since more than 4000 years ago. The Chengziya (城子崖) in the eastern Zhangqiu City is where the Longshan Culture was first discovered in 1928. One of the unique features of Longshan Culture is the skill of pottery making, demonstrated in recovered black pottery relics - some of which are as thin as egg shells.
During the Spring and Autumn Period (722 B.C. - 481 B.C.) and Warring States Period (475 B.C - 221 B.C.), Jinan was split between two states - the state of Lu in the west and the state of Qi in the east. In 685 B.C., the state of Qi started to build the Great Wall of Qi (齐长城) across Changqing county, and the wall still remains today and is open to tourists. Bian Que (扁鹊) From present-day Changqing County came the earliest Chinese doctor to appear in historical documents and the most famous one of his time. Zou Yan (邹衍, 305 B.C - 240 B.C) developed the concepts of Yin-Yang and Five Elements (阴阳五行说).
In the Han Dynasty (206 B.C. - 220 A.D.), Jinan was the capital of Kingdom of Jibei (济北国) and started to become the cultural and economic hub of the region. In 1995 and 1996, archaeologists from Shandong University excavated the tomb of Han Dynasty in Shuangru Mountain (双乳山汉墓) where the last king of Jibei Liu Kuan (刘宽) was buried. More than 2000 relics such as jade swords, jade masks, jade pillows have been recovered within the 1,500 square meter excavation site, showing off the wealth of the city during the period. Cao cao (曹操, 155 A.D - 220 A.D) was an official of Jinan before he became the de facto ruler of Han Dynasty. His son overthrew the last emperor of Han and founded the Wei Kingdom(220 A.D - 265 A.D) of the Three Kingdoms Period.
Since the 5th century, Buddhism has flourished in Jinan. The Langgong Temple (朗公寺) in the southern county of Licheng was one of the most important temples in northern China at that time. The same period witnessed extensive building of Buddhist architectures in the southern counties of Licheng and Changqing such as Lingyan Temple (灵岩寺) and Thousand-buddha Cliff (千佛崖).
Jinan remained the cultural center of the region during the Song Dynasty (960 A.D - 1279 A.D), and the two most important poets of Southern Song were both born in Jinan: Xin Qiji (辛弃疾, 1140 A.D - 1207 A.D ), the famous patriotic poet who led the peasant rebellion against the Jurchen invasion in 1161 A.D. and Li Qingzhao (李清照, 1084 A.D - 1151 A.D), the most famous female poet in Chinese history. Both of the poets lived in the same period when the Song Dynasty suffered major military setbacks against Jurchen invasion and lost almost half of the territories. Although well-known for their patriotism, the poets failed to persuade the government of Song Dynasty to stand up to the northern Jurchen Kingdom and recover the lost territories including Jinan. After retreating to southern China and realizing the incapabilities of their government, the poets started to write extensively and passionately about their hope of a stronger nation and recovery of lost lands. Many of their poems appeared in Chinese textbooks of later dynasties as well as the textbooks used today.
During the Jurchen and Mongolian occupation, culture in Jinan continued to thrive. The most famous artist of Yuan Dynasty, Zhao Mengfu (赵孟頫, 1254 A.D - 1322 A.D) was appointed as the governor of Jinan in 1293 A.D and spent three years in the city. Among the extraodinary art works he finished during his stay in Jinan, the best painting is "Autumn Colors on the Qiao and Hua Mountains" (鹊华秋色). Geographer Yu Qin (于钦, 1284 A.D - 1333 A.D) was also an official of Jinan and finished the famous geography book Qi Cheng (齐乘) in Jinan.
The focus on technology intensive industries has transformed Jinan from a city supported by heavy industry and textiles to a city of more complex industrial structures. IT, transportation tools, home appliances, bio-engineered products, etc. have become the new pillars of industry. Jinan's IT-related economic output ranks No.4 in China in 2004.
Industrial zones include:
Jinan is famous across China for its springs and lakes. Jinan was also the historical center of Buddhist culture for the whole province and invaluable historic sites are left behind in its southern counties.
"Baotu" means "jumping and leaping" in Chinese. The water in the spring pool can be seen foaming and gushing, looking like a pot of boiling water. The spring was visited by the Emperor Qian Long (1711 A.D - 1799 A.D) of the Qing Dynasty and the Emperor complimented the spring as "No.1 under the Heaven"(天下第一泉). A tablet with the Emperor's handwriting "Baotu Spring" has since been erected beside the spring pool and the fame of Baotu Spring has spread across the country.
Not far away to the northeast of Baotu Spring Park is the Daming Lake, which, together with Baotu Spring and the Thousand-Buddha Mountain (千佛山) used to be considered the "Three Greatest Attractions in Jinan" until other historic sites outside of the city started to be developed for tourism. However, since these sites and parks started to be developed in counties outside the city, the traditional attractions within the city have been losing their allure for tourists. The springs are particularly overrated. Having mostly dried up long ago, a pond with some bubbles in the middle fails to make an impression as a major tourist attraction.
Other notable parks include the Five Dragon Pool (五龙潭) near the Baotu Spring Park, the Black Tiger Springs (黑虎泉) beside the city moat, and the Baimai Springs (百脉泉) of eastern Zhangqiu City.
The Lingyan Temple in the southern county of Changqing was one of the four most famous temples (四大名刹) of the Tang Dynasty. The temple was founded during the Jin Dynasty and it reached its heyday in the Tang Dynasty and Song Dynasty. During the Tang Dynasty, the famous monk Xuan Zang stayed in the temple and translated Buddhist manuscripts he had brought to China from India. Many emperors in Chinese history had visited the temple before they went to Mount Tai (one of China's five sacred mountains, located south of Jinan) for ceremonies.
The clay sculptures of Buddhas made in the Song Dynasty are considered as "The Best of China" (海内第一名塑) by the great scholar and journalist Liang Qichao (1873 A.D - 1929 A.D). Buddhist architectures within the temple such as towers and tomb towers are among the earliest and best protected in the region.
The Jinan Municipal Museum is to the west of Thousand-Buddha Mountain, in the north of the city. Even though dwarfed by the provincial museum, the Jinan Municipal Museum still has a collection of more than 20,000 relics. Most relics on display in the municipal museum were recovered in the city.
The Shandong Provincial Library in the eastern High-tech Park is the finest in the province and among the Top 10 Chinese Libraries. As of 2004, the library had more than 5.18 million documents, many of which date back many centuries and are important sources for research on Chinese history. The library also has a large collection of western journals/books. Originally, the library was built beside the famous Daming Lake in 1909 by the then governor of Shandong. In the late 1990s, a project was undertaken to move the library to the eastern part of the city, and it reopened in 2002 with 35 reading rooms and more than 2000 seats.
Quancheng Road was rebuilt at the same time that the Quancheng Square was created. The government's intention was to create a modern business district and yet preserve the traditional Chinese culture. Therefore one may find both newly-built shopping malls with traditional Chinese styles and modern western skyscrapers. Quancheng Bookstore--the largest bookstore of the city--is located here. Walmart also can be found, near the western entrance to Quancheng Road.
There is also a basketball team called Shandong Jinsidun. The same as football team Shandong Jinsidun has been playing in Chinese top basketball league for all the 13 seasons since the league turned professional in 1995. Their best season is 1997-1998 in which they got the 3rd place.