Until the Local Government Act 1972 came into force in 1974, Sutton Coldfield was a municipal borough in its own right and part of Warwickshire, with the title of "Royal Town". Many signs still record this fact.
The Sutton manor prospered, as did the developing village. In 1300, Guy, Earl of Warwick, was granted a charter to hold a market on each Tuesday and an annual fair on the eve of Holy Trinity, in Sutton Coldfield. The market town further prospered, though not at the rate the nearby market town of Birmingham did. It was decided that Sutton needed a chapel, and so the free chapel of St. Blaize was constructed within the grounds of Sutton manor. The chapel survived up until Tudor times, when it was destroyed.
Another church was built on a hill, 400 feet above sea level. The first incumbent was ordained in 1305. This was to become Holy Trinity Church, and it became the local parish church. During the 14th century, Sutton Coldfield had also acquired other buildings such as New Hall Manor, Peddimore Hall and Langley Hall, all of which were moated. New Hall has been expanded and altered, though part of the original structure remains, Peddimore Hall has been completely reconstructed with the current building dating to the 17th century, and Langley Hall has been completely demolished though parts of Langley Hall Farm and the moat remain. The oldest house in the Sutton district is The Grove, a cruck-framed building, though its history is unknown.
The Wars of the Roses put an end to the period of prosperity that Sutton Coldfield was undergoing. It fell into decay and poverty became widespread. The Earl of Warwick was killed in the war, and the manor of Sutton Coldfield was passed into the possession of the Crown. The markets and fairs in the town ceased, and the town depopulated. Having lost its importance, the Sutton manor was demolished, with the building materials being reused in the construction of a mansion at Bradgate in Leicestershire.
It was during this period that John Harman grew up, working at Moor Hall Farm. He studied at Magdalen College, Oxford. He formed a friendship with Thomas Wolsey and started a career in the church, beginning with his appointment as chaplain at the free chapel of St Blaize in Sutton. Harman continued to be promoted and developed a position working for the monarchy. In 1519, Harman was appointed Bishop of Exeter and changed his surname to Vesey, thus becoming John Vesey. Vesey used his position within the church, and the substantial wealth that came with his status, to help Sutton Coldfield out of the period of depression. He revived the markets, introduced paving of the roads, founded a grammar school and constructed 51 large stone cottages around Sutton Coldfield for the poor. One of his most well-known actions was to convince his friend King Henry VIII to give the hunting land in Sutton Coldfield to the residents. This was to become Sutton Park. Vesey died at Moor Hall in Sutton Coldfield in 1555. His actions helped regenerate Sutton Coldfield, and parts of his legacy remain. Some of the stone cottages still exist, the grammar school exists today as Bishop Vesey's Grammar School and his additions and improvements to Holy Trinity Church remain. He is remembered through various places being granted the name Vesey, including the Birmingham City Council ward Sutton Vesey and the memorial gardens adjacent to Holy Trinity Church, Vesey Gardens.
Another man who rose to prominence in the area was William Wilson who married a local landowner. He was responsible for the design and construction of Four Oaks Hall and the Moat House, his home. The Four Oaks estate was built by Lord Ffolliot, an Irish peer. During this time, the Sacheverell family became proprietors to New Hall. After becoming unpopular in Birmingham, they had moved to a new residence at New Hall and preached at the local parish church.
Sutton Coldfield's economy witnessed a boom in that the residents were now experiencing new luxuries, such as seafood. Products for sale in the town were 10% more expensive than in the neighbouring villages. In 1791, following the Priestley Riots in Birmingham, William Hutton, whose home had been attacked by protesters, travelled to Sutton Coldfield to stay for the summer. Rioting was supposedly due to spread to Sutton Coldfield. It was believed that John Horsfall's home at Penns, in the south of Sutton, was a target for the protesters and so cavalry arrived to protect it. No rioting took place. Despite this, Hutton was forced to move to Tamworth when local residents objected to his arrival, fearing his presence would encourage the rioters to come to the town.
In 1817, Sutton Coldfield was the focus of national attention when a young woman named Mary Ashford was found murdered on Penns Lane. The male she was with that evening was traced and charged with her murder. The trial became known as Ashford v. Thornton when the defendant, Abraham Thornton challenged William Ashford to a duel claiming trial by combat. Ashford refused and Thornton was released. Soon after, trial by combat was abolished by Parliament.
During the 1820s, schools were founded throughout the town by the Corporation. The Corporation also constructed almshouses on Mill Street and in Walmley. In 1836, George Bodington acquired an asylum and sanatorium at Driffold House (now the Empire cinema), Maney where he researched pulmonary disease. In 1849, the original royal charters were sent to London to be translated from Latin as a result of the skins on which they were written beginning to deteriorate. In 1859, William Morris Grundy, a wealthy local landowner, died leaving behind an estate worth £25,000. His home, at what is now the Royal Hotel on the High Street, looked over a hill and a sandstone barn constructed by Bishop Vesey. This belonged to Grundy until his death. The land was sold off in plots to developers who built homes along there. Some of the land was sold to the Midland Railway Company for £4,000 when it was discovered that it was to be part of their proposed new line. In 1862, Sutton Coldfield received a railway station; Sutton Coldfield railway station. The Sutton Park Line was then opened in the 1870s. The "Sutton Coldfield and Erdington News", Sutton Coldfield's first newspaper, began printing in 1869. Sutton Coldfield received a water supply in 1892 when tapped water was brought to the town from Shenstone. By then, the town already had a gas supply which was provided by the Sutton Coldfield Gas, Light and Coke Company.
Sutton Coldfield's growing population was reflected in the creation of several new parishes during the 19th century and the construction of new town halls. The census of 1881 revealed that the population had increased from 4,662 in 1861 to 7,737. It was claimed that the arrival of the railways in the town were responsible for the population increase.
In 1974, Sutton Coldfield became part of Birmingham, to the objection of local residents, when the metropolitan county of the West Midlands was formed. More recently, Sutton Coldfield has undergone changes. Areas of the town centre have been pedestrianised and the Gracechurch Centre, now The Mall, has been improved. Construction of a large development along Brassington Avenue is currently underway and construction of nearby apartment buildings is complete.
In 1528, a charter of King Henry VIII gave the town the right to be known for ever as "The Royal Town of Sutton Coldfield" and to be governed by a warden and society. The charter was secured by Bishop John Vesey. This unreformed corporation survived until 1885, when it was replaced by a municipal borough. Although the title "Royal Town" was still used, the municipality created in 1885 was not itself a Royal Borough. The town and borough were ceremonially part of Warwickshire until 1974, when it was amalgamated into the City of Birmingham and the metropolitan county of the West Midlands. The formal Mayoral chains of office are now on display in Birmingham Council House.
Sutton Coldfield forms the Sutton Coldfield parliamentary constituency, the largest Parliamentary Constituency in Birmingham whose Member of Parliament since 2001 has been Andrew Mitchell (Conservative). Within the City of Birmingham metropolitan borough, it comprises the wards of Sutton Four Oaks, Sutton Trinity, Sutton Vesey and Sutton New Hall. Sutton Trinity ward was created in June 2004, at which time the other three wards' boundaries were changed. From 5 April 2004, it has been a council constituency, with many local services managed by a district committee made up of all Sutton's councillors.
The town borders Erdington and Kingstanding in Birmingham, Streetly in Walsall, the district of North Warwickshire and Lichfield and Tamworth in Staffordshire. The area in general is regarded as one of the most prestigious locations in the West Midlands and Central England; a 2007 report by the website Mouseprice.com placed two Sutton Coldfield streets amongst the 20 most expensive in the United Kingdom.
The northern stretch of the Birmingham city sandstone ridge culminates at Sutton Coldfield. Plants Brook rises in the area of Streetly and flows through Sutton Park and directly beneath the town centre before culminating at Plantsbrook Nature Reserve in Walmley Ash.
A second shopping centre was named the Sainsbury Centre until Sainsbury's closed their store; the name was later changed to "The Red Rose Centre". The centre has its own multi-storey car park with access from Victoria Road.
New Hall Walk is a row of shops built behind The Parade in the late 1990s. The company that manages the site also manages several of the shops on the Parade built at the same time. It has its own large outdoor car park. Opposite the Red Rose Centre, behind New Hall Walk, is a single floor, indoor market facility known as the In Shops. The exterior of the building was improved in 2005.
There are several local shopping parades serving the suburbs of Sutton, including "The Lanes" Shopping Centre in Wylde Green, at Walmley, at New Oscott (local shops and a large "out of town" style development similar to New Hall Walk called Princess Park), and at Boldmere Road.
Sports facilities, including swimming pool and 400m athletics track, are located at Wyndley Leisure Centre (which is undergoing a major refurbishment), on the edge of Sutton Park. This was opened in 1971 by Ethel E. Dunnett. The nearby youth centre was opened in September 1968. Parts of Rectory Park is leased to Sutton Cricket Club and Sutton Town Football Club.
There are two conservation areas in Sutton Coldfield. The High Street, King Edward's Square, Upper Clifton Road, Mill Street, and the northern end of Coleshill Street are protected by the High Street conservation area, which is part covered by an Article 4 Direction. At the centre of the conservation area is Holy Trinity Church, which is fronted by the Vesey Memorial Gardens, created in memory of Bishop John Vesey. The High Street conservation area was designated on November 28, 1973 and extended February 6, 1975, August 14, 1980 and again on July 16, 1992. It covers an area of 16.95 square kilometres (41.87 acres). Beyond the railway bridge, which crosses the Sutton Park Line and separates the Lichfield Road and High Street, is the Anchorage Road conservation area which protects buildings such as Moat House by William Wilson. The conservation area was designated on October 15, 1992 and covers an area of 17.57 square kilometres (43.41 acres).
Holy Trinity Church is one of the oldest churches in the town, having been established around 1300. The church has been expanded over time, notably by John Vesey, Bishop of Exeter who built two aisles and added an organ. His tomb is located within the church. Outside of Sutton town centre, there are numerous other churches, many of which are listed buildings. In Four Oaks is the Church of All Saints which is a Grade B locally listed building. It was built in 1908 and designed by Charles Bateman, whose Arts and Crafts are seen in the building. Another church in Four Oaks which is of a mixed Arts and Crafts-Gothic style is Four Oaks Methodist Church, built between 1907 and 1908 to a design by Crouch and Butler. It is Grade II listed. The Methodist Hall attached to it is also Grade II listed.
In Mere Green is the Church of St Peter, also by Charles Bateman, which was built between 1906 and 1908. The building is Grade II listed. Also designed by Charles Bateman is the Church of St Chad near Walmley. This was built between 1925 and 1927. The side chapel was built in 1977 to a design by Erie Marriner. It is Grade II listed. St Johns Church, built in 1845 to a design by D. R. Hill, is located on the Walmley Road in Walmley. It is the parish church for Walmley and is of a Norman architectural style. It is Grade C locally listed. In Maney, near Walmley, is St Peter's Church which began construction in 1905, although the tower, which was designed by Cossins, Peacock and Bewley, was constructed in 1935 and the building is Grade II listed. Located on the border of Sutton town centre is Church Hall, a former Roman Catholic Chapel, built around 1834. The building is now used for offices and is Grade II listed.
Good Hope Hospital provides main hospital services to the town, including accident and emergency facilities. Another hospital in Sutton Coldfield is Sutton Cottage Hospital, which is operated by the Birmingham East and North Primary Care Trust. It opened in 1908 and the buildings were designed by Herbert Tudor Buckland and Edward Haywood-Farmer.
On Lichfield Road, Sutton Coldfield is served by a police station, magistrates court (both opened in 1960) and fire station (opened 1963). On the opposite side of the road is Sutton Coldfield College, which is the main college of further education for the area. Also located on the north-eastern outskirts of the area is Sutton Coldfield transmitting station, the first television transmitter to broadcast outside the London area.
Linked by regular and fast services from Sutton Coldfield railway station on the Cross-City Line to the centre of Birmingham, Sutton is mostly a commuter dormitory town for people who work in Birmingham. The 1955 Sutton Coldfield rail crash occurred here, when an express train entered the very tight curve through the station much faster than the speed limit of 30 mph. The Sutton Park Line also crosses the town roughly perpendicular to the cross-city line (crossing at a point out of easy sight near the former Midland Road station), but lost its passenger services and stations in the 1964 "Beeching Axe". It retained a loading bay at the adjacent Clifton Road Royal Mail sorting office for a time, but now remains as a freight only line.
The Roman road Icknield Street cuts through Sutton Park to the west of the town. The town is bypassed to the north by the M6 Toll, the first toll motorway in the UK, accessible from Sutton by junction T2 at Minworth (co-located with the M42 junction), T3 and T4 (interchanging with the A38 at the south and north ends of their 5-mile parallel run), and T5 at Shenstone. It also has easy access to the M6 proper to the south, via junctions 5 (Castle Bromwich), J6 (Gravelly Hill, or "Spaghetti Junction") and J7 at Great Barr; and also the M42 in the east, via junction 9 near Minworth. The A38 itself used to run through the centre of the town (literally, using the since-pedestrianised line of the Parade), but now uses the dual carriageway bypass to the east. The former route of the A38 is now the A5127 Lichfield Road, branching from the southern end of the Aston Expressway on the Birmingham Middleway ring road, and continues to provide a major connective route running between and on slightly altered paths through the centres of Erdington, Sutton and Lichfield.
The Parade in the town centre is the main destination and terminus for numerous National Express West Midlands bus services in and through Sutton Coldfield. The resultant congestion and perceived danger, from heavy (and almost exclusively) bus traffic on the repurposed and poorly sighted Lower Parade and Lower Queen Street coming into conflict with pedestrians (including children from several local schools) crossing between the Red Rose Centre and the other shopping areas, has led to calls for a dedicated bus centre to be built external to the town centre. This would be built as part of the controversial Brassington Avenue development, with an elevated walkway across the ring road providing access to the main shopping areas.
There are also a number of primary schools located in the town. Whitehouse Common Primary School in the Whitehouse Common area, The Deanery Primary School, Holy Cross Infant and Junior Catholic Primary School, and Walmley Primary School serving the Walmley area. The Shrubbery School, established in 1930, is a private primary school located on the fringes of Walmley and Hollyfield primary located on hollyfield rd founded in 1907.
Highclare School, founded in 1932, is a primary and secondary school located on three sites in the Birmingham area. Two of the sites are located in Sutton Coldfield, with the other being located in nearby Erdington. The Sutton Coldfield facilities are on the Lichfield Road in the Four Oaks area and in the Wylde Green area to the south, which houses the nursery.
St Nicholas Catholic Primary School in Jockey Road is a voluntary aided catholic primary school. Established in 1967, there are currently about 210 students. The school is oversubscribed and has exceptional academic standards.
Adventure Soft Publishing operates from within the town; they have produced the successful Simon the Sorcerer series of games.