Qu'Appelle, Saskatchewan, is a small village (legally, for historical reasons, a town) with considerable historic significance located on Trans-Canada Highway and the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) mainline, some east of the provincial capital of Regina.
Qu'Appelle was for a time the terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway and the major distribution centre for what is now southern Saskatchewan. The town is situated in a lush rolling parkland, with intermittent coulees containing steady-flowing creeks flowing into the Qu'Appelle Valley and poplar bluffs surrounding sloughs. Qu'Appelle thrived in the early settlement period of the North-West Territories in the 1880s through early 2000s.
Qu'Appelle had at one stage been credibly anticipated to be the major metropole of the North-West Territories by both the federal government and the Church of England (now the Anglican Church of Canada. It was under serious consideration by the federal government as district headquarters of the District of Assiniboia and territorial headquarters of the North-West Territories. The Church of England had designated Qu'Appelle the cathedral city for the Diocese of Qu'Appelle, which geographically corresponded precisely to the District of Assiniboia in the North-West Territories.
Political events, however, passed Qu'Appelle entirely by when Lieutenant-Governor Edgar Dewdney selected the locale of his own landholdings at Pile-O-Bones as his Territorial capital: Qu'Appelle's significance other than in historical terms then largely lapsed.
(1) that it was named after Troy, Ontario by Wellington Mulholland, a land surveyor and land agent and
(2) that the name was chosen by the brothers Stephen and James Caswell who were merchants in the area and managed the post office.
When the Canadian Pacific Railway arrived in 1884 the new town was renamed Qu'Appelle Station. (The word "Qu'Appelle," a corruption of qui appelle, French for "Who calls?" refers to the Qu'Appelle Valley and the then popular legend versified by E. Pauline Johnson.) In 1902 the name was changed to South Qu'Appelle and in 1911 the longstanding confusion as to the name "Qu'Appelle," which also referred to the former Hudson's Bay Company fort town in the Qu'Appelle Valley, to the northeast of Qu'Appelle, was resolved when the two communities agreed to deem the then-CPR station site as Qu'Appelle and the town in the valley as Fort Qu'Appelle.
Qu'Appelle was at one point among the likely choices as capital of the North-West Territories, as indicated by its original status as the historical see city of the Anglican Diocese of Qu'Appelle. The choice of Pile-of-Bones, as Regina was originally called, as the Territorial headquarters was a national scandal in the 1880s: there was an "obvious conflict of interest" in Lieutenant-Governor Edgar Dewdney's promoting of Pile-of-Bones as the territorial headquarters. A 1980 local town history reports that
In his January 5, 1892 edition of the Regina Leader, [Nicholas Flood Davin] explained what in his mind, and in the minds of most of the people in this area, was the real reason Qu'Appelle was not chosen, or rather why Pile of Bones was Dewdney's choice. According to Mr. Davin, Lieutenant-Governor Dewdney and fourteen other men formed a syndicate and bought Hudson Bay section along the C.P.R. Mainline....He chose the town site of Regina...about a mile west of the present station—that is, on their own section '26'." |Qu'Appelle : footprints to progress: a history of Qu'Appelle and district The Stage is Set pp.2, 11. }}
Until 1897, however, when responsible government was accomplished in the Territories, the lieutenant-governor and council governed by fiat and there was little legitimate means of challenging such decisions outside the federal capital of Ottawa, where the Territories were remote and of little concern.
Many Qu'Appelle children of the late 19th and early 20th centuries recounted frightening encounters with angry Cree and Metis, who not unreasonably bore a considerable grudge against white settlers in the Qu'Appelle region. (Cf references, passim, in Laura Ingalls Wilder's "Little House" books.)
As in Fort Qu'Appelle, town life in many ways resembled that of an Indian hill station during the British Raj. Perhaps improbably in so small a community but indicative of the not always tolerant and inclusive social mores of early settlement in the Canadian west, discrete neighbourhoods of Qu'Appelle were generally called "Germantown" and "Breedville," the latter in racist early reference to the prairie Anglo-Métis, whom white settlers at the time called "half-breeds," a term now considered disparaging, and generally avoided.
The fine yellow brick town hall and "opera house" remains marginally in use, though its auditorium has long since been closed to public use because it falls short of modern standards of safety and the town cannot bring it up. Its companion building, Qu'Appelle High School, built in similar style in identical yellow brick, closed in 1973 and was demolished in 1975. The Queen's Hotel, built in 1884, survived, latterly largely as a town pub, until its destruction by fire in 2003. At one point the town contained a train station, some half-dozen grain elevators, a bank, post office, butcher, two general stores, a hardware store, pharmacy, the hotel (and "beverage room," in the terminology of the early 20th century Canadian West), barber shop, firehall, law office, numerous service stations, several cafés, cinema (later converted to a grocery store, now closed) and a covered rink. In the 1890s, there was "a flour mill, a creamery, a felt and boot factory."
The Qu'Appelle Anglican Diocese maintained the St John's College Farm immediately to the west of town. By 1910 the town's population had risen to nearly 1,000. Qu'Appelle was an important local business, shopping and distribution centre which, staged an annual summer fair.
But the farming hinterland was far more densely populated than today; travel to Regina was accomplished via a train journey and domestic transport mostly by horse drawn conveyances. With the vastly depleted rural population and improved transport these amenities have almost wholly lapsed. The rationalisation by the grain companies of their depots for buying grain from farmers and the resulting disappearance of Qu'Appelle's grain elevators hastened the process of decline as even the regular visits by farmers to town to deliver grain ceased.
Qu'Appelle is located in the Indian Head Plain of the Aspen Parkland ecoregion on the parkland of the Qu'Appelle flood plain. Qu'Appelle's elevation is above sea level. The area is characterised by lush rolling grasslands, interspersed with poplar bluffs and sloughs. Qu'Appelle is located in the transition zone between the Qu'Appelle River and the corresponding Qu'Appelle Valley and the Canadian Prairies. Echo Creek (occasionally known as Springbrook Creek) rises immediately to the north of Qu'Appelle and opens out into a broad coulee immediately to the south of the Qu'Appelle Valley.
Natural features of Egg Lake (20.6 km); Echo Creek (14.8 km); the Fishing Lakes (25.1 km) and Strawberry Lakes (27.7 km) are near Qu'Appelle. The Fishing Lakes—Katepwa, Mission, Echo and Pasqua Lakes—immediately to the north of the Qu'Appelle in the Qu'Appelle Valley, are all fed by the Qu'Appelle River.
The Indian Head Bird Sanctuary, maintained by the Canada Agriculture Experimental Farm Tree Nursery is located 14 km east of Qu'Appelle. The sanctuary is a mixed-grass prairie eco-region and wetlands created by the damming of the Indian Head Creek.
The 2006 Statistics Canada data estimates the town's population at 624 residents, continuing a trend of population decline in the town since the 2001 Census. Of this population, 48.8 per cent were male and 51.2 per cent were female. Children under five accounted for approximately 4.8 per cent of the resident population of Qu'Appelle. The population of Qu'Appelle compares contributes .645 per cent of the Saskatchewan population total.
Between 2001 and 2006, Qu'Appelle's population decreased by 3.7 percent. During the same time period, the population of Saskatchewan decreased by 1.1 percent, while that of Canada grew by 5.4 percent. The population density of Qu'Appelle averaged , compared with an average of for the province. According to data from 2001 (although with so small a population percentages are not especially informative) more than 36.9% of the town's residents identify themselves as Roman Catholic; 38.46% of residents are Protestant, 2.3% are Christian, 5.38% are Buddhist, and 16.9% of residents do not practise a religion.
Qu'Appelle is a part of Census Division No. 6. Qu'Appelle and area do not belong to a Saskatchewan Regional Economic Development Authority, REDA.
According to the Canada 2001 Census the community profile was as follows:
The catastrophe of Lieutenant-Governor Edgar Dewdney nominating Pile-of-Bones, later Regina, as his Territorial Capital was only the first of the disasters to befall Qu'Appelle. Bishop Burn's closing of the Qu'Appelle Model Farm and transfer of Bishop's Court from Qu'Appelle to Indian Head in 1895 accelerated the decline. Thereafter Qu'Appelle's pretensions as the would-be metropolis for the District of Assiniboia were comprehensively dispelled.
The Anglican metropole was first unofficially transferred from Qu'Appelle to Indian Head, when Bishop Burn decided to live there rather than in Qu'Appelle; he transferred Bishop's Court there, and it was subsequently transferred to Regina.
By the 1960s the CPR Railway station, the grain elevators, the Post Office, the Royal Bank of Canada, the Red and White grocery store, the Hamblin general store, the barber shop and three gas stations remained. These were not to last beyond 1970.
The long-disused movie theatre building on Main Street across the street from the Kraus BA garage briefly was turned into a general store in the 1960s when Hamblin's General Store and the Red & White Store closed but this soon ended. The bypassing of Qu'Appelle by Highway 10 to the Qu'Appelle Valley, the closing of the grain elevators and the gas stations, the high school and all the remaining grocery stores determinatively spelled the end of Qu'Appelle as a viable commercial centre.
As late as the 1960s there were still a hospital, post office, butcher, Red & White grocery store, general store, barbershop and several garages, including Royalite and BA stations on the trans-Canada highway and two garages in town operated by the Kuntz and Kraus families. The historic Queen's Hotel, built in 1884 and perhaps the last of the major commercial structures of Main Street, burned to the ground in 2003. Northern Bank, Qu'Appelle, built in 1906 and taken over by the Royal Bank of Canada in 1925 is located on the east side of Main Street looking north. The branch continued to operate until the 1960s when reduced commercial activity in Qu'Appelle and declining population in the hinterland made it no longer viable.
James Hamblin School, the town primary school built in the 1960s and named for the proprietor of the long-operating (but now long-defunct) Main Street general store, remains in operation with nine staff and an enrolment of 156 in 2007. The Saskatchewan library association maintains a travelling library in the Town Hall with internet access to the province-wide collection and provides facilities for ordering books from such collection. This is in contrast with the otherwise sadly depleted resources of today's Qu'Appelle by comparison with the burgeoning community of the past. This Library service is perhaps one improved facility.
During the Depression Lady Tweedsmuir, the Vicereine of Canada, established a library project by which used books were collected in Eastern Canada and distributed by the train carload throughout western Canada free of charge. This afforded Qu'Appelle's impoverished residents a modest library facility during the 1930s; Qu'Appelle today need no longer depend on such a provident society charitable facility as the provincial library service maintains a library in the town hall. The long-disused movie theatre on Main Street across the street from the Kraus Esso service station briefly enjoyed a second life as a general store during the 1960s when James Hamblin's general store closed on his death but it lasted only for a decade.
At present there remains a small business core including a print shop, tattoo parlour (!) and analytical laboratory. The Odd Fellows, long a local service club, dissolved. There still remains a Mason's lodge, a Lions Club, the Community Players and a Historical Society. No substantial retail establishments yet remain, however, and Qu'Appelle residents must repair to Indian Head, Fort Qu'Appelle or Regina to provision their households. The "Opera House" — the auditorium in the Town Hall — is long closed and remains unused, having failed to conform to contemporary safety regulations.
The rural population which Qu'Appelle had served declined as family farms were consolidated. The Dominion Lands Act, 1872 provided for farms of or ¼ section The Depression of the 1930s made it clear that while this might have been enough land for a family farm in Ontario, it was not nearly enough in the dryland farming conditions of the prairies.
Rural churches and schools closed. Churches disappeared in the 1950s. All rural schools were closed in June, 1963 and farm children thereafter bused to town school. Little trace of either now remains. Rural community life lapsed.
By the time such rural communities had passed into their brief history, Heber Ellis, the editor and publisher of The Progress had reached the end of his life and The Progress died with him.
The Qu'Appelle Spirit Monthly newsletter provides local reporting from volunteers.
The town of Qu'Appelle was incorporated February 20, 1903. The municipal affairs are handled by the town mayor and council. The rural municipality of South Qu'appelle No. 157 office is located in Qu'Appelle and provides municipal rural affairs to the small localities of Avonhurst, Edgeley, Grassmere, Green Haven, Qu'Appelle Airport and St. Josephs Colony. South Qu'Appelle RM in 1885 was a large area comprising more than 18 townships with an area of 592 square miles. Due its size, the council divided into 27 road districts and appointed road overseers to maintain construction and maintenance of early roads.
Qu'Appelle is in the federal electoral district of Regina—Qu'Appelle (formerly Qu'Appelle).
Provincially, the area is within the Constituency of Indian Head-Milestone.
Qu'Appelle is a town of extremes, and temperatures have ranged anywhere from a record low of in 1983 to a record high of in 1988. According to Environment Canada, the average temperature in Qu'Appelle ranges from a January daily average of to a July daily average of .
As a consequence of Qu'Appelle's relative dryness, summer evenings can be very cool, the average summer minimum temperature drops to . Qu'Appelle has a semi-arid climate typical of other cities in the Western Great Plains and Canadian Prairies.
Qu'Appelle receives an average of of precipitation annually, with of that occurring in the form of rain, and the remaining as snow. Most of the precipitation occurs from May to August, with June and July averaging the most monthly rainfall. On July 13, 1981, Qu'Appelle received of precipitation, making it the wettest day in the town's recorded history. On May 12, 1983, Qu'Appelle received of snowfall, providing the snowiest day in the town's recorded history. Droughts are not uncommon and may occur at any time of the year, lasting sometimes for months or even several years.
Bishop Adelbert Anson, the first Bishop of Qu'Appelle (1884), cultivated a relationship between Qu'Appelle and his home Diocese of Lichfield in England and with wealthy friends there. They briefly took on both Diocese of Qu'Appelle as a mission field and the parish of St Peter's Pro-Cathedral as a particular focus of interest. Much of the early development of the St John's College Farm and the furnishing of St Peter's Pro-Cathedral are attributable to that early connection.
The diocese briefly operated a training facility for Anglican clergy in the town and the St John's College Farm, a model farm immediately to the west of town. Bishop Burn, who lacked Bishop Anson's connections with patrons in the Diocese of Lichfield, closed both of these facilities in 1895. The parish church of St Peter's, however, continued as the pro-cathedral for southern Saskatchewan until 1944.
The original Bishop's Court, the official residence of the diocesan bishop, was also in Qu'Appelle. It was moved by John Burn, the second bishop of Qu'Appelle, to Indian Head, some to the east of Qu'Appelle, in 1896 when he closed the college. It had became apparent that
(Nevertheless, despite Bishop Burn's having comprehensively retired Qu'Appelle as the de facto diocesan see city, when he died in 1996 he was buried in Qu'Appelle and his grave monument is the largest in Qu'Appelle Cemetery.)
Early on, the bishop's residence was further relocated to the diocesan property in Regina which has itself now been sold and is being redeveloped for commercial and residential use as the declining Anglican Church has been forced to rationalise its resources. Still, when Bishop Burn died he was buried in Qu'Appelle Cemetery, where his grave monument remains the largest. Ultimately, with the ecclesiastical hierarchy and the provincial metropolis long since having been removed to Regina, pro-cathedral status was removed from St Peter's, Qu'Appelle and conferred on St Paul's, Regina in 1944.
(However, even Regina's continuing status as an episcopal see city and that of St Paul's, Regina as a cathedral may now be in doubt as the further declining Anglican Church rationalises its increasingly top-heavy episcopal structure.)
The Presbyterians of Qu'Appelle were so substantial a body that when a non-concurring minority of their congregation seceded and re-constituted themselves a separate continuing Presbyterian congregation, building a separate meeting house on Main Street for their St Andrew's Presbyterian Church, both congregations remained viable: those who went into the union still constituted a majority of the United Church congregation and both were able to maintain a vital presence in the town for many years.
For a generation the church union issue raised hackles in Qu'Appelle among uniting and non-concurring Presbyterians and many firm friendships were sundered. Nowadays as elsewhere in Canada, as the matter has passed into history and matters of denominational affiliation have largely become moot in Canada's increasingly secular society, the issue is largely forgotten.
Immaculate Conception parish began in 1886. Its original church building survives as a private residential dwelling. Whereas Presbyterian and Methodist, and later United, churches maintained rural congregations in which farm families locally worshipped and conducted community events, Roman Catholics as with Anglicans came to town for Sunday services and liturgical festivals and from the outset the Catholic church in Qu'Appelle had a substantial constituency.
It is the largest church building in the town of Qu'Appelle, seating up to 225. It has the most vital surviving congregation, albeit long since without a resident clergyman.
The town's churches mounted parish, congregational, Sunday School and other events through the year which were a focus of social activity for members of the four religious denominations of the town: the Church of England, Roman Catholics, Presbyterians, Methodists (later United Church, containing all the Methodists and the majority of the Presbyterians) and, after the 1925 church union, the continuing Presbyterian congregation.
When the rail arrived in 1882, the Troy (Qu'Appelle)-Prince Albert trail served freight and stagecoach transport to the north-west and onwards to Edmonton. The CPR formerly provided passenger service east and west from Qu'Appelle. It was heavily used before the arrival of widespread private motor vehicle ownership and again during the Depression; it continues to run past Qu'Appelle but no longer maintains a station or passenger facilities; nor are there any longer grain elevators. Highway 35 runs south to Weyburn and north to Fort Qu'Appelle and while no longer heavily trafficked since the opening of Highway 10 from Balgonie to the Valley, is still paved on the northward sector.
The Regina Qu'Appelle Regional Health Authority assesses and provides health care within the Regina-Qu'Appelle region. Regina and Indian Head both have hospitals and special care homes in the Regina Qu'Appelle Regional Health Authority region which are near to Qu'Appelle. Fort Qu'Appelle is home to the Fort Qu'Appelle Community Health Services Centre, All Nations' Healing Hospital and the Echo Lodge Special Care Home. Regina has a number of health care facilities, some of which are the Pasqua Hospital, Regina General Hospital, Rehabilitation Services, Wascana Rehabilitation Centre, Community Health Centres, Al Ritchie Health Action Centre, Child Health Clinics, Four Directions Community Health Centre, Mental Health Services and the population and Public Health Services. Indian Head facilities consist of the Indian Head Hospital, and Golden Prairie Home long term care facility.