Inkle weaving

Inkle weaving is a type of warp-faced weaving where the shed is created by manually raising or lowering the warp yarns, some of which are held in place by fixed heddles on a loom known as an inkle loom. Though inkle weaving was brought to the United States of America (US) in the 1930s, the inkle itself seems to predate this by several centuries, being referred to in Shakespeare's Love's Labour's Lost.

Inkle weaving is commonly used for narrow work such as trims, straps and belts.

Equipment

Inkle looms are constructed in both floor and table-top models. Either model is characterized by a wooden framework upon which dowels have been fastened. These dowels will hold the warp threads when the loom has been dressed.

One of the dowels is constructed so that its position can be adjusted. This tensioning device will be taken in as weaving commences and the warp threads become shorter.

Additional equipment includes yarn of the weaver's choice, yarn or thread for forming heddles and a shuttle to hold the weft. A notebook is also handy for charting weaving diagrams.

Process

The inkle loom is threaded with warp threads according to the weaver's design, alternating between yarn that that can be raised and lowered and yarn that is secured in place through the use of the heddles. The raising and lowering of these warp threads creates the shed through which the weft thread will be carried on a shuttle. The weaver should make one pass with the shuttle with each opening of a shed through the raising and lowering of threads.

A simple raising and lowering of threads creates a plain-weave band in which warp threads are slightly offset. Weft threads are only visible at the edges of the band and the weaver may wish to take this into account by warping threads that will form the edges in the same color as the weft.

As the weaving commences, the warp threads will shorten on the loom and the weaver will need to adjust the tension periodically. As the inkle band progresses, it will also get closer to the heddles. The weaver will also need to advance the warp thread along the bottom of the loom to open up new weaving space. In her book "Inkle Weaving," Helene Bress recommends loosening the tension when you are ready to advance the warp. Once you have done so, tighten the tension again and resume your weaving.

There are other more advanced techniques in which, instead of merely allowing warp threads to alternate in their up or down positions, individual threads are brought to the surface to form a brocaded pattern. One side of the band will show the exposed surfaces of warp threads while, on the other side of the pattern, the weft thread will be visible.

An inkle loom is also useful in the practice of tablet weaving for its added portability. Simply thread the warp onto the loom but use cards instead of alternating between free-hanging and heddle-secured yarn.

Uses for Inkle Weaving

The narrow bands that inkle weaving forms are ideal for using as belts or for decorating the edges of a garment. (This weaver finds a narrow strip of hand-made fabric to be ideal as a strap for use in yoga. The many varieties of color and pattern are limited only by the weaver's imagination.

Recommended Reading

Bress, Helene. "Inkle Weaving." Flower Valley Press, 1990.

Brown, Rachel. "The Weaving, Spinning, and Dyeing Book, Second Ed." Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 1992.

See also

• Loom

External links

• History of Inkle weaving