Asti Province

Asti

[ah-stee; Eng. as-tee]

Asti is a city and comune in the Piemonte or Piedmont region, in north-western Italy, about 55 kilometres east of Turin in the plain of the Tanaro River. It is the capital of the province of Asti.

History

Ancient times and early Middle Ages

People have lived in and around what is now Asti since the Neolithic period. Before their defeat in 174 BC by the Romans, Ligures, such as the Statielli, dominated the area and the toponym probably derives from Ast which means "hill" in the ancient Ligurian language.

In 124 BC the Romans built a castrum, or fortified camp, which eventually evolved into a full city named Hasta. In 89 BC the city received the status of colonia, and in 49 BC that of municipium. Asti become an important city of the Augustan Regio IX, favoured by its strategic position on the Tanaro river and on the Via Fulvia, which linked Derthona (Tortona) to Augusta Taurinorum (Turin). Other roads connected the city to the main passes for what are today Switzerland and France.

After a first victorious defence against the Visigoths in 402 AD, thanks to a massive line of walls, Hasta suffered for the barbarian invasions which stormed Italy after the fall of the Western Empire, and declined economically. In the second half of the 6th century it was chosen as seat for one of the 36 Duchies in which the Lombards divided Italy. The territory of Asti comprised a wide area, stretching out to Albenga and the Maritime Alps. This remained when northern Italy was conquered by the Franks in 774, with the title of County.

In the late Carolingian age Asti was ruled directly by his bishops, who were the main landlords of the area. Most important are Audax (904-926) and Bruningus (937-966), who moved the episcopal seat to the Castel Vecchio ("Old Castle"), where it remained until 1409. The bishopric of Asti remained a powerful entity well into the 11th century, when Pietro II received huge privileges by emperor Henry II. In the second half of the century, Bishop Otto tried to resist the aims of the powerful countess Adelaide of Susa, who damaged the city several times. During Otto's reign, a commune and the consul magistrates are mentioned for the first time (1095).

Local power

Asti was one of the first free communes of Italy, and in 1140 received the right to mint coins of its own by Conrad II. As the commune, however, had begun to erode the lands of the bishop and other local faudataries, the latter sued for help to Frederick Barbarossa, who presented under the city walls with a huge army in the February 1155. After a short siege, Asti was stormed and burnt. Subsequently Asti adhered to the Lombard League (1169) against the German emperor, but was again defeated in 1174. Despite this, after the Peace of Konstanz (1183), the city gained further privileges.

The 13th century saw the peak of the Astigiani economic and cultural splendour, only momentaneously hindered by wars against Alba, Alessandria, Savoy, Milan (which sieged the city in 1230) and the Marquesses of Montferrat and Saluzzo. In particular, the commune aimed to gain control over the lucrative trade routes leading northwards from the Ligurian ports. In this period, the rise of the Casane Astigiane resulted in contrasting political familial alliances of Guelph and Ghibelline supporters. During the wars led by Emperor Frederick II in northern Italy, the city chose his side: Asti was defeated by the Guelphs of Alessandria at Quattordio and Clamandrana, but thanks to Genoese help could recover easily. After Frederick's death, the struggle against Thomas II of Savoy became fierce: the Astigiani defeated him on February 23, 1255, at Montebruno, but Thomas (who had been taken prisoner) replied ordering all traders from Asti to be arrested in Savoy and France. This move showed the proccupation of the neighbouring states for the excessive power gained by the city, which had captured Alba and controlled both Chieri and Turin.

This led to the intervention of Charles I of Anjou, then King of Naples and the most powerful man in Italy. After some guerrilla actions, Asti signed a pact of alliance with Pavia, Genoa and William VII of Montferrat. In 1274 the Astigiani troops were defeated at Cossano, but, on December 12, 1275, were victorious over the Angevines at Roccavione, ending every Charles' attempt to expand in Piedmont. In the 1290s, after the defeat of William VII also, Asti was the most powerful city of Piedmont. However, inner struggles for the control of trading and bank enterprises, soon divided the city in factions. The most prominent was that of the powerful bankers of the Solaro family, who, in 1314, gave the city to king Robert of Naples. The free Republic of Asti ceased to exist. In 1339 the Ghibelline exiles recaptured the city, expelling the Solaro and their helpers. In 1342 however, the menace of the Solaro counter-offensive led the new rulers to submit to Luchino Visconti of Milan. Visconti built a citadel and a second ring of walls to protect the new burgs of the city. In 1345, in the Battle of Gamenario, the Ghibelline Astigiani and John II of Montferrat defeated again the Neapolitan troops. John also ruled over Asti until 1372, but seven years later the city council submitted to Galeazzo II Visconti's authority. Galeazzo in turn assigned it to Louis of Valois, Duke of Orléans.

French and Savoy domination

With the exception of several brief periods under Visconti, Montferrat and Sforza, Asti remained under the Valois rule, and then directly under the French Crown. Situation changed in the early 16th century, during the wars between Charles V and Francis I of France. In 1526 it was besieged in vain by Charles' condottiero Fabrizio Maramaldo. Three years later, indeed, the Treaty of Cambrai assigned Asti to the German emperor, who in turn gave it to the viceroy of Naples Charles de Lannoy. After the death of the latter, Charles included it in Beatrice of Portugal's dowry: when she got married with Charles III of Savoy, Asti became part of the Savoy dominion.

Asti was one of the main Savoy strongholds in the following wars. In 1616, besieged by the Spanish governor of Milan, it was defended by Duke Charles Emmanuel I himself. In 1630–1631, the city suffered heavy losses for a plague, and some years later was conquered by the Spanish, although Savoy regained it in 1643. Another unsuccessful Spanish siege occurred in 1650. In the November 1703, during the War of Spanish Succession, Asti fell to France again: it was reconquered in 1705 by Victor Amadeus II. In 1745 French troops invaded it once more, but was freed the following year.

In 1797 the Astigiani, raged by the continuous military campaigns and by poor economic situation, revolted against the Savoy government. On July 28 the Repubblica Astese was declared. However, it was suppressed only two days later. The revolutionary chiefs were arrested and executed. The following year the Savoy were expelled by Piedmont by the French revolutionary army, and Asti was occupied by general Montrichard. After a short reversal, the French returned after the victory at Marengo (1800) near to Alessandra: Napoleon himself visited Asti on April 29 1805, but was received rather coldly by the citizens, and the city was demoted and incorporated with Alessandra under the department of Marengo. After the end of the French empire, Asti returned to Piedmont in 1814, and followed its history until the founding of the unification of Italy in 1861.

Main sights

Some sections of the ancient city walls remain on the North side of the city and in the late 20th century building work uncovered a section of Roman wall in the center of the city.

The area to the NW of the city, between the centre and the Cathedral, is very rich in medieval palaces and merchants houses, many with monumental towers. Asti was known as the city of 100 towers (although there were 120 in total) of which several still remain today within the old city walls. The most known are the Tower of the Comentini (13th century), the octagonal Torre de Regibus and Torre Troyana (13th century), as well as the ancient Rossa di San Secondo, built during the reign of the Roman Emperor Augustus.

Asti is the home to several old churches. These include:

  • the great Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta (built in the 13th century over another Cathedral), one of the biggest in Piedmont, in Romanesque-Gothic style. The monumental belfry is from 1266. the facade is characterized by three portals, each surmounted by a big rose-window. The interior, with a nave and two aisles, houses a wide cycle of 18th century frescoes, some altarpieces by Gandolfino d'Asti and precious silver artworks from the 15th-16th centuries. The presbytery has a noteworthy mosaic floor, from the pre-existing church. next to the last pilasters of the nave are two 14th century artworks, the funerary seal of bishop Baldracco Malabaila and the equestrian portrait of Arricino Moneta.
  • the Collegiata di San Secondo (13th century) in the old medieval centre next to the Palazzo Civico. Its name refers to Secundus of Asti, the city's patron saint. The crypt is from the 6th century. The facade has three notable Gothic portals, while the interior houses a polyptych by Gandolfino d'Asti and other works.
  • Santa Maria Nuova (11th century).
  • San Martino, first mentioned in 886. The old Gothic edifice was dismantled in 1696 and rebuilt along Baroque lines in 1736.
  • Sant'Anastasio (8th-12th century), whose museum has some antique capitals and sculptures.
  • the Baroque church of St. Catherine.
  • the Baptistery of St. Peter (12th century) is the most important building from the High Middle Ages in the city. It has octagonal plan with a wide dome.
  • San Pietro in Consavia (15th century), with elegant external decorations. It the seat of the Archaeological Museum, with Roman and Egyptian works.

There is a Synagogue and a museum depicting the history of Asti's Jewish community whose presence is documented since 812.

Events

One of the most famous events held in Asti is the famous Palio d'Asti, in which all the old town wards, called "Rioni" and "Borghi" plus nearby towns compete in a bare-back horse race. This event recalls a victory in battle versus the rival city Alba, during the Middle Ages after the victorious battle a race was held around Alba's walls, from then on every year in Asti. Asti's Palio is the oldest recorded one in Italy, and in modern times is held in the triangular Piazza Alfieri preceded by a medieval pageant through the old town on the 3rd Sunday of September.

Wine

The three neighbouring Provinces of Asti, Cuneo, and Alessandria incorporate the Langhe and Monferrato hill region in the centre of Piedmont, limestone and sandstone deposits laid down by the retreating Adriatic some 5 million years ago, and are home to some of Italy's finest red wines, plus some famous whites. Asti city is in the centre of the area and is the major city of this notable wine district.

Arguably Italy's most important red wines, the renowned Barolo's, Barbaresco's — are produced in the nearby Langhe, in Cuneo province, nearer to Alba, 30 minutes from Asti. Most of the Monferrato lies in the Province of Asti, and is an equally, though not so famous, important area for the production of fine wines. Perhaps the wine most famously associated with Asti worldwide is the sparkling Asti Spumante (DOCG). The name today is usually shortened to ‘Asti’ in order to avoid associations with the many wines of dubious quality which are labelled as Spumante. Asti is typically sweet and low in alcohol (often below 8%). It is made solely from the moscato bianco white muscat grape. A premium version known as Moscato d'Asti (DOCG) is seldom seen outside Italy. Besides Asti Spumante being the most known wine abroad, the most renowned wine made in Asti and Monferrato is the red wine called Barbera.

While Asti province became famous around the world thanks to Martini and Rossi, Gancia and Ricadonna which made commercial wines like Asti Spumante, it is now also becoming famous internationally for its classic red wines such as Barbera d'Asti, Fresia d'Asti, Grignolino d'Asti, Bonarda and Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato. These wines and many others can be sampled during the week-long Douja d'Or wine exhibition which is held at the same time as the Palio and Sagre.

Food

Asti is also famous for its Festival Delle Sagre, held in September a week before the Palio. During the festival most of the towns in Asti's province meet in a great square called "Campo del Palio", here they offer typical food and wine for which they are known. On the Sunday of the Sagre all the towns involved stage a parade with floats depicting traditional farming with everyone in costume along Asti's roads to reach "Campo del Palio" square.

Asti province becomes a gourmands delight from October to December in the white truffle or "tartufo bianco" season. Although neighbouring Alba is better known for its October truffle fair, some of the best truffles are found around Asti's hills, and every weekend there is a local truffle festival.

Notable Astigiani

People from Asti have included:

.

Frazioni

Bramairate, Bricco Fassio, Bricco Roasio, Ca' dei Coppi, Caniglie, Carretti, Casabianca, Castiglione, Madonna di Viatosto, Mombarone, Mongardino Stazione, Montemarzo,Migliandolo, Poggio d'Asti, Portacomaro Stazione, Quarto, Quarto superiore, Revignano, Rioscone, San Grato di Sessant, San Marzanotto, San Marzanotto Piana, San Vito - Poggio, Santo Spirito, Serravalle, Sessant, Torrazzo, Trincere, Vaglierano, Valenzani, Valfea, Valgera, Valle Tanaro, Valle Andona, Valmaggiore, Valmairone, Valmanera, Variglie.

External links

  • Hasta in The Princeton Encyclopedia of Classical Sites.
  • Asti Antica , a site dedicated to the history of the town.
  • OASI Organization for Computer Science Development in Asti

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